Thursday, December 21, 2006
Posadas - Understanding the Ritual
Las Posadas, literally translated into giving someone a place to rest, is a ritual whose origins are not clearly known, but may have originated in Galicia, Spain several centuries ago and brought to New Mexico.
Here the tradition has been kept alive for several hundred years. Simply put, Las Posadas re-enacts the journey of Joseph and Mary seeking refuge in the dead of winter. It is a novena, or a myth/prayer drama in which community members go for nine consecutive days before Christmas to homes (whose owners offer to host the Posadas) to ask for refuge.
The group, accompanied by guitarists splits into two groups, one group with Mary and Joseph, remain outside as a choral group and the other group comes into the home. The dialogue, sung between the two groups dramatizes that journey taken by the pregnant Blessed Virgin and her husband Joseph.
The dialogue sung in verse form back and forth, emphasizes the "inn keepers" who do not want to let them in, thinking they are thieves. Joseph, in desperation says he only seek refuge for one night for the Queen of Heaven.
The group inside the home, responds in the 4th verse, "Well if it is a queen that asks in the middle of the night, is she alone?"
The group, waiting outside responds with Joseph, "My wife, is Mary the Queen of the Heavens, and she is to be mother of a being of the Divine Word." In response, those inside, ask them to come into their humble abode in a generous response exemplified by the words, "Abranse las puertas, rompanse los velos, Que viene a pasar La Reina del Cielo." Translated, it commands that the doors be open, the veils be torn apart because the Queen of Heaven is passing through.
With these words the entire group comes in, and singing joyfully as one, say how blessed they are to receive them and give thanks to both Mary and Joseph for this blessing of their home with their coming. After this, prayers are said for both the host family and the community, and a meal awaits the group. Usually, posole, tamales, bread or tortillas, red chili and the traditional Christmas cookies, called biscochitos and hot coffee and hot chocolate is served.
This drama can be seen as a re-enactment of the importance of the gift of hospitality, generosity and trust. Hospitality and generosity are the characteristic traits that mark Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Latino cultures. Trust, opening the doors and tearing down any "veils" of your home (the self), to any stranger in need of refuge was also practiced here in New Mexico until about 50 years ago. Yet, in an ambiance of mistrust, some people continue the practice of welcoming strangers into their homes.
It is trust tied to faith that when you serve the other, you are bringing into full action what it is to be truly human, to be vulnerable. In the dark of winter, when seeds under the ground are dormant, one cannot see what is growing above ground, or one cannot see clearly in darkness. It is then that one must trust. Trust that it is a virtue to be hospitable; trust in the other; and trust that life continues and exists to give light. It is in a sense very existentialist. In fact in Spanish the old term used when a woman gives birth is "Var dar luz." She is giving Light. May we all celebrate Posadas in our own way, in the way of open heart.
Wednesday, December 20, 2006
Winter Wonderland- A Recipe and Memories
It got me thinking, "I should post recipes of my favorite meals, and include a little history and possibly some memories that the food elicits." What does this have to do with the snow, you ask? Well, very little at all, but please indulge me. While on break, I'll try to bring you two recipes a week. Please feel free to add your version of the recipe or any questions in the comments section.
Food is critical to understanding New Mexico and our unique, idiosyncratic nature. This entire area can be considered special because of its historical roots. They feed into the culture, the speech patterns, language, and our frame of mind. New Mexico is a minority majority state, one of the few in the Nation. Additionally, we must keep in mind that the people here are rooted, and I would venture to think that we may boast one of the largest indigenous populations you may find in the States.
There is not a huge transplant of people here, and when visitors come by, many never want to leave. Although some of the surrounding states (Arizona, Oklahoma) have some indigenous groups, they seem somewhat separated from the "mainstream" culture of the state, while I think New Mexico is far more integrated and ingrained.
This is due in part to the long relationship between the truly indigenous groups and the Spaniards (real Spaniards, which I would now be hard pressed to find in NM unless they got off of a plane recently). Even though many atrocities occurred, the Native Americans and Spanish were able to co-exist. It may not have been the most collegial relationship, but this formed an intermixing and combination of Spanish and Native American traditions, a new hybrid lifestyle and consciousness emerged. Native Americans developed families and relationships with those of Spanish heritage. Race and culture truly found a balance - to some degree.
My family, who can trace its New Mexican genealogy back 400 years, always raised me to recognize my Indian or indigenous roots as well as my Spanish ones. Although I can't claim a tribe, or any pueblo, I can easily trace on either side two generations back and find a recently de-tribalized Indian. My father and mother kept close to their Native American friends and we would participate in ceremonies and festivals.
Obviously, this topic deserves more time, and is the source for my understanding of the word Chicano and Mestizo. Both identifying words that help to unite this Spanish/Native American dichotomy so firmly established and maintained by some.
With that being said, I give you the recipe. Possibly one of the best cold weather soups/stews that I feel is a great example of the mixing of cultures: posole and chile, best when enjoyed with some saltine crackers, or tortillas.
Posole can be eaten as part of a meal, or as the entire thing. The reason I selected posole as the first recipe is because today, December 20, we will be continuing a celebration of Posadas, which takes place in the week preceding Christmas. A posada is a New Mexican tradition where people open their houses to re-enact Joseph and Mary seeking shelter and food before Jesus's birth.
There is no one way to do a posada, but this is a brief description of this dynamic tradition. The group of parishiners goes from house to house and asks for shelter and food in song. They are denied shelter and food until they reach the final house, where everyone is let in an fed. My parents will be opening their house tonight and serving posole to the community members, and parisheners.
I always remember doing posadas as a child. It was fun walking as a group from house to house, singing. It was communal and spiritual as we attempted to understand the struggle that Mary and Joseph experienced. Also, let's not forget it was a good way to get some great free food! I'm happy my family continues to participate in this tradition that I have long abandoned. And without further ado, I give you the recipe (very unspecific, due to my mother's "to taste" cooking habits).
Posole is made of corn (posole corn), pork, oregano, onions, and salt. It is usually eaten with red chile (made separately). Posole has the chunkiness of a stew but it swallows like a soup. This is my mother's recipe and will feed about 20 people:
Pork Loin Roast.
This can be done the day before if you want to skim off the fat.If not, cook the two at the same time in different pots.
4-5 lbs. cut into chunks, put in water with garlic, onion (1/2 large or medium cut into chunks) and salt in a large pot. Cover and bring to a slow boil for about 1 or 2 hrs. Traditionally, you also add pigs feet (not pickled) and cueritos (the fresh rind skin of the pig) and pig knuckles. This makes the posole nice, gelatinous and thick. But....this is not absolutely necessary. The important thing is the spices and slow cooking for a full flavor. After the meat is done, refrigerate overnite and the next day take the fat off the top. Add the posole, which has popped open, simmer for 1-2 hours adding dry red chile pods. (Take off seed and stem and crush in). Keep tasting and add more of what you think will make it more flavorful.
1) Take a bag or 1/2 bag of posole corn or if you want to feed a bunch of people (20) use the whole bag (24oz) and rinse in colander several times to take off lime taste.
2) Place in cold water with salt (to taste), onions about 1/2 medium in chunks, garlic 1 or 2 cloves and oregano about 1 tablesppon. These ingredients can vary, depending on your own taste buds and what you like.
They absorb a lot of water, so place qute a bit of water
It takes about an hour and a half before it pops open.
Combine in one large pot the cooked meat and liquid and the posole. Don't overload with too much posole as you want a soup like full flavored dish.
Chile is the perfect compliment to any dish, I'm positive that there will be many more recipes that link back to this recipe...once again, my mother's.
10-12 red chile pods (dried) - boil in water until soft
Place in blender with: 1-2 cloves of garlic, 1 tsp oregano, 1-1.5 tsp basil (albacar), salt (1 tsp. or more), soft chile pods (drain water), and add water to blender (approx. 2 cups). Blend chile. In the same olla (pan) that you boiled chile in, put olive oil enough to cover pot bottom, 1 small can of tomato sauce (start with half a can then add as you want if chile is too hot), and if needed water. Boil on low with cover on pot or else all the stove will get spattered with chile. Boil for aboout 15 minutes. Taste while boiling to see if it's seasoned enough.
Variation: you can later on cook chile with meat and papas or potatoes (cube meat, fry, add diced onion), cube potates, cook with cover on olla (pot) till papas are done.
Enjoy, comment, question, and pictures from posadas to come!
Tuesday, December 19, 2006
Albuquerque's Walkability on the Rise
The criteria for being a walkable area are:
1) Food- a variety of places to eat with a range of cuisine, prices and atmospheres;
2) Drink- not everyone drinks (alcohol), but everyone knows someone who drinks, and it turns out that often many joints that serve alcoholic beverages end up having good music, atmosphere, and appetizers.
3) Shops- This is only necessary because it creates a vibrant mix of people. People aren't just there to sit, eat, drink, but also to walk, shop and people watch.
The value of having a mixed area is that it brings a pulsating combination of families, ages, and socio-economic groups (to some degree). This causes a wholesome, interesting, and exciting ambiance.
All cities have one or two walkable areas, but some are better designed than others. Places I have visited that are more walk friendly include Seoul, New York, Austin, and Toronto.
Having large areas of the city walkable is smart design because it encourages people to get out and exercise, and it supports tourism. It seems too often that the rise of suburbia, and the design of cities has created gaps between communities, increased the need to drive and the want to stay home. Intermingling in large areas of town creates a communal feeling, providing a safe place to share moments, eat food, and possibly make friends.
Here are the top three walking areas in Albuquerque starting from number three:
#3 Downtown:
Downtown has a lot to offer, especially after recent changes to the Central Ave./8th St. area which slows down traffic just as you enter Downtown. There are places to eat sushi, pizza, and there are a couple places that have some nicer cuisine including Slate Street Café, Capo’s, or Tucanos- a Brazilian style currascaria.
In many ways Downtown covers the largest area and has the biggest selection of places to visit, but it has the weakest choices of restaurants. Additionally, after 10:30pm it is not a particularly safe place.
Drinking establishments are Downtown’s strength. With a variety of different venues for music and dance, there is definitely a place for adults who want to enjoy nightlife. There are lounges, dance clubs, and performance areas. Generally, the scene is younger, but is growing towards catering to the “hip professional crowd.”
A lot of effort has been put into “revitalizing” the Downtown area and it has been very successful. The plaza, which is at the north end, enjoys Summer-fest during summer, which can be fun, entertaining and enjoyable (if you go on the right evening), and can host other good events.
In total, Downtown is probably the most walkable of all the choices, but it is the most limited. The movie theatre and specific planned events are the only wholesome, alternative or family-oriented walking experiences.
With the development of many lofts and efforts from the City, it is sure to become more active and walkable. There currently are a range of places to shop, but for some reason it just doesn't attract the crouds.
#2 Nob Hill:
A close second to what I consider the best walking area, only because its walkabiliy is lower. Nob Hill is a long strip with a major street (Central), separating both sides. It is the most diverse area. There are tattoo and piercing parlors, Co-op shopping markets, and some of the finest restaurants in Albuquerque.
The crowd is as diverse as are the stores. With a large UNM post grad and neighborhood family population, this area is great for enjoying an affordable meal or finding odds and ends in historic Route 66 shops.
Some delicious, healthy, medium priced restaurants include Il Vicino, Gecko’s, and Yanni’s. For finer cuisine try Zinc or Scalo’s. There are great happy hour specials for food and drink. If your pocketbook can’t support eating at these types of restaurants, Arby’s and other affordable “fast food” is scattered around.
Nob Hill is definitely one of the most electric, energetic places in Albuquerque. Enjoyable during the day or night, out of the three areas, it definitely has the most organic feeling to it. Whether you go to Kelly’s for a home made micro-brew and some yam fries, or enjoy a string trio at Zinc over cocktails, there is a huge variety of choices.
#1 Old Town:
The Old Town area is currently the best in terms of walkability. Old Town is located just west of Downtown around the cross streets of Rio Grande and Mountain. Fortunately, there's still plenty of places to park in the vicinity (near Tiguex park, on surrounding streets, or in the parking structure near the National Atomic Museum).
There are four major museums in the area - 2 that are newly renovated and very nice - a variety of places to eat traditional New Mexican food (Monica's El Portal, Little Anita's, La Placita), fancier food (Season's, High Noon, Hotel Albuquerque, Melting Pot, The Antiquity), fast food (Blakes, Wendy's Subway, McDonalds, Teriyaki Chicken Bowl, KFC), and other food such as Chinese restaurants, ice cream joints, and places to pick up corn dogs and drinks.
As far as shopping, that is one of Old Town's major attractions. Anchored by San Felipe church, which was founded in 1706, Old Town is a plaza surrounded by shops that have jewelry, gifts, and clothing. Many have coined this as Albuquerque’s “cultural corridor”. It is rich in the tradition of the Spanish, Native Americans and the growing Mexican influence.
If you're looking for drinks and a place to relax in a comfortable, social atmosphere look no further than Q-Bar, St. Claire's Bistro or upstairs at Seasons. Any of these locations can be a great pace to start your night with a happy hour, or as a last stop. With tasty food, friendly wait staff, live entertainment, and a place to walk if you aren't enjoying it, you can't lose.
Conclusion:
The foreseeable walking future of Albuquerque seems bright, at least in some areas. These three areas are all connected by one crucial vein, the famous Route 66, which has transformed into Central Ave but has kept its vibrancy.
With each area having its own unique qualities, they should all be easily accessible and joined, for instance, by shuttles. Making walking a priority and joining these section together will definitely have benefits that stretch beyond the obvious. Walkability is something for Albuquerque to stive towards, adding accessibility to enchantment.
Friday, December 15, 2006
San Miguel Mission Chapel
Tuesday, December 12, 2006
La Navidad en New Mexico
The humble, selfless generosity exhibited by any woman old enough to be your mother makes any place your home. Handmade gifts and unexpected goodies let you know you're their hijo or hija and their responsibility. There is a safety and comfort in the communal and collective way that New Mexican women tend to the "youth" (anyone 20 years younger than them)... during Christmas. I do not want to make NM seem like a utopia, but truly, the Christmas transformation is unique.
The most obvious change begins with the lighting, best captured by the luminarias or farolitos that are said to symbolize a way of guiding Santa, or lighting the path for Jesus' entrance into the world. They glow warm, silent and earthen. Originally, they were only for Christmas Eve, but with the advent of technology they are now a common adornment on many houses. Their simplicity and beauty act like hot chocolate for the winter's moribund landscape; or at least so it feels. If nothing else, they remind us that the Earth is our source. They literally look like someone placed a bulb underground, allowing us to see its inner-workings, much like children do when they illuminate their fingers and noses with flashlights.
Food cannot be ignored as the true catalyst for the season. It manifests itself first in the colors, then on the taste buds. Knock on any door and you will find pots filled with surprisingly simple, yet tasty posole soup and perfect cold-weather chile stews. In many other places Christmas is almost neon. The colors of cookies, lights, and dress are commercial, plastic. Not to say this doesn't happen here as well, but there is an organic nature to many of the cultural traditions we carry. Tamales are the perfect example, being a hybrid of the indigenous and the New World. They are festive in themselves - made with chile, pork, and corn mash, and wrapped in corn husks like little gastronomical gifts. Unlike the candy cane red, or Rudolf's nose, tamales are matte and subtle in redness. Almost rust colored. Like a recently walked path in the fresh snow, we can look back and appreciate all the steps that helped to make this intricate delight.
Biscochitos, the State's official cookie, are possibly the best cookie for dipping in coffee or chocolate EVER! They're somewhat spongy once dunked, and the combination of cinnamon and sugar with the sharp, distinct anise flavor reminds you of that relative you only see at times like this. They are grainy and brittle, but buttery and soothing.
Food can be reflective, and a powerful tool for reconnecting to our past and strengthening the present. I intentionally spend time with my mother learning to prepare pastelitos, posole, carne adovada, empanaditas, chile rellenos, biscochitos, and tamales. She shares stories of her youth, but also of the food... and she gets a good nag in whenever possible. We also eat fudge and ham and decorate our house with regular Christmas bulbs, but Christmas in New Mexico would never be the same without its food, color, and people. All changes when touched by the New Mexico Christmas spirit.
Balloon Fiesta
The Art of Ballooning
Since all surfaces on Earth absorb the Sun's heat differently, dangerous vertical winds (thermals) emerge as the day progresses. The air is most stable right after sunrise and before sunset. Essentially, the only control a pilot has in a balloon is changing altitude. Pilots usually won’t fly in the middle of the day when that control is lost and when the temperature differential between the outside and the inside of the balloon is too subtle for the balloon to fly in the first place. If you wake early enough on any crisp morning in
Balloons typically cost between $20,000 - $30,000 and every year some don't fare as well as others. They can catch turbulent or warmer conditions and end up clipping power lines, meeting the "depths" of the Rio Grande, or finding a resting place a lot further away than anticipated. Hence, any experienced balloonist has "chasers" who's sole job is to, well, chase the balloon (usually in a pickup truck). New Mexicans are well acquainted with random trucks driving erratically where no roads could ever possibly go. A word of advice, look up when you see this because there's a good chance your curiosity will be satisfied by the sight of a flying pitcher. Of course, it's also often the case that teenage boredom gets the better of young New Mexican drivers leading to frequent excursions into empty lots. You be the judge.
The enchantment of ballooning is, for most New Mexicans, far more central than you would expect. We are drawn to the seemingly uncontrollable nature of takeoff, flight, and landing; to the very soothing periodic noise of burners as balloons sail daily overhead; and to the hope that maybe one morning an enormous pig-shaped balloon will drop into our back yard loaded with all sorts of pinata-like goodies.